There was nothing for it so I set off up the highway. The highway is the one I came in on yesterday and I had spent some time studying maps on how to avoid using it. I'd come up with a nice convoluted route that had 2 Cols and no red roads. That was completely out the door now as there was no chance of getting any food on those routes. Fortunately it is Bastille Day so there is no traffic, especially at 8 am. So the riding is actually quite pleasant. I often start touring rides in Europe without breakfast, planning to get it in a few K's, so I was used to this sort of start but a bit worried about where I would get food today.
The next couple of towns did not have any food and then the route started to climb, there is a Col along the early part of the route. As it happens none of the towns before the Col had anything open. Fortunately there is a largish town at the top, Saales, naturally since it is Col de Saales. The ride to here was very pleasant, hardly any traffic and just a light spattering of rain. Once in town there was a shop doing a roaring trade. I stocked up on bread, 1 and ½ baguettes, an eclair, some ham, a tomato, coke and what I thought was a saucisse but was actually a pate, very tasty. After a good bloat up (the Eclair was the best I've had so far) it was time to continue on. Did I mention the rain? Yes it is raining lightly. By the top of the Col the front panniers had a bit of water on them but my shoes were still dry. So really it is not that bad.
There was a pleasant but slow descent into a valley and then a left turn onto the road for the second Col of the day. This climb seemed harder than yesterday's, it was definitely steeper, at least 10 %. It also started raining a lot more, although the feet were still dry. I plodded away, I needed to stop a couple of times, once because of sweat washing down into my eyes. I did mention the rain didn't I? It's a bit cold too, definitely under 20 (16 when I got to the next town).
Eventually I reached the top and, finally, a Col with a sign. Then a trying descent down the other side. Trying? Yes, it was quite steep, many 10 % sections, so it was hard work breaking as I didn't want to go to fast because of the rain. Also my shoes and panniers got soaked on the way down, all thanks to the spray from the wheels.
Once in town I was so soaked I was NOT going to camp. I found a hotel near the centre of town, 55 Euro. I thought that was a bit dear and while I was thinking about it she offered me a different price. I really don't know what. Any way, I'll find out tomorrow :)
Absolutely soaked I dragged everything upstairs, laid it all out to dry. The room and bathroom are covered with stuff. After bathing, yes a bath not a shower but with a shower hose, I went for a walk around the town. On the way into town on the bike I had noticed several Salon de The and I was quite in the mood for a cup of tea. Now when I came in it was 11.50 am, now it was 12.40 pm. You know what that means don't you? Yep, everything was closed. Sigh. I did in the end find a patisserie where I got a Mille Feuille (many layer custard slice) which I had after lunch, very nice.
Back in the room I ate my lunch, the patisserie and then lolled about watching the Tour. I actually set my alarm to wake me near the end in case I dozed off. Which I did. All in all a very pleasant afternoon.
When I arrived for dinner she explained that there was some sort of speciality of the house. I was actually planning to get a three course menu but in the end decided that since she'd dropped the price I might as well get the speciality, only works out to 3 extra Euro. The speciality was very nice, a stew I guess you'd call it. Meat pieces, some tendon and a load of fat and bones. Paul would have loved it :) I wolfed it all down, except for the bones and fat. Afterwards I had a Tarte aux Maison, sort of an apple strudel pie slice. Very nice too.
Afterwards checked the weather, more rain :(
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