We got ready and rode down the hill for breakfast around 8 am I think. Stopped at the patisserie and got baguette, two pain au raison and a Tresse for later. We then sat on a rock wall near the Logis we couldn't get into, there was a market on too. We then set of immediately for our loop, the earlier we go the cooler it will be. First off we had to go down an awful busy red road to Beynac-et-Cazenac, a two star town thanks to the fortress there. We rode into the lower town which is very picturesque and Paul took far too many photo's. (I think that's going to be the case for the next few days.) Then we walked up to the fortress proper. This is an English fortress from the 100 years war. On the other side of the river are the French fortresses from the same period.
We walked around but we were too early, so we went and got a drink while we waited for the Chateau to open. 3 Euro each for an Orangina, it's a good thing the Australian dollar is appreciating :) We went into the fortress just after 10, it was a good time as there were not too many people around yet. The fortress is amazing, it is in excellent condition and is under going a restoration process from 1980 to 2030! It is perched on a rock out cropping, naturally, high above the river floor. Very good. There are of course very few furnishings other than some massive chests and wardrobes. We spent over an hour just inside the castle area. By the time we came out there were hundreds of people around.
We then rode down from the castle using a different route and then crossed over the river to the French fortress of Castelnaud-la-chapelle. It is only a little down stream from the English fortress. It is not as impressive looking but Paul thinks that is because it is on a naturally defended (i.e. shear) rock face so it does not need as many battlements. We rode up the 1.5 km road to the chateau and had a look around, however it is already close to midday and we originally planned to be back at the camp site by then. Not to mention that it is getting damn hot now. So instead we looked at the junk shops and I bought a replica castle.
We descended down looking for somewhere to have a drink and a patisserie we bought this morning. In the end we sat by the river, a bit cooler, quite pleasant. Then it was time to make some tracks to get back before it got too hot. However there was one more stop along the way, La Roque-Gageac, actually the castle I bought a miniature of. It wasn't far and Paul time trialled us there in no time. This castle is also in excellent condition but is unfortunately not open to the public. We think the town was given a star rating is for the actual town itself, it is quite nice, built along the side of the cliff. We took a bit of a look around before continuing on.
Paul resumed time trialling and we were back to the back road route we used to get to Sarlat in no time. A pleasant enough ride with no panniers, but much hotter than yesterday. Yesterday was 34C and today is 37C, noticeably worse. We rode back to camp with the intention of cooking. So while Paul went ahead I bought baguette, peaches (for dessert), a bottle of Orangina and paid for an extra day of camping. The lady at reception was quite impressed that we'd been out in such hot conditions. Paul cooked up a storm! Alright, that's an exaggeration he reheated the jar of Coq au Vin we bought the other day. It was very nice with the baguette, and very filling :)
After cleaning up we walked into town. It was absolutely packed with people. The town itself is all cleaned up, very nice. Beautiful stone work in all the buildings, wooden framed houses here and there. We went to the church for a look, and because we thought it would be cool inside, but alas it was pretty warm inside. I bought some Foie Gras to send home and a small porcelain serving plate which has a goose head as a handle. The next thing was to mail it all home. The plate was a bit of a risk but it was only 10 Euro so hopefully it will make it home. It is wrapped in paper and a T-shirt and wedged in between some other stuff. We only just made it to the Post Office in time, Paul just happened to notice the time at 4.45 pm, they close at 5. 3.45 Kg's sent home for 41 Euro, the bike will certainly be lighter tomorrow :)
We walked around until dinner, just enjoying the ambience. The restaurant we picked actually has its own cave which you can check out after the meal. The restaurant was quite cool when we got there because of it which was nice. The food, alas, was not as good as yesterday. Because the fresh Foie Gras was so nice last night I risked getting it tonight and while it was tender it had a strong duck flavour which doesn't work that well for me. The main course of trout was not so hot either, I think it was over cooked because it was hard to get the bones out. Dessert was a piece of chocolate cake, a little too close to Sarah Lea for me. So really the meal was a bit of a disappointment compared to yesterday. After paying we checked out the restaurants cave, and it really is a cave. It has been in use since the 15th century and the water flows into a small fountain next door to the building. It was also lovely and cool in there so we stayed a few minutes. Then back to camp, in the dark, it was finally starting to cool down. I stared out of the tent at the stars for a while again to help cool down.
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